I thought I’d show you the stages method that I’m using to paint my Blood Bowl team.
A great tutorial on how to paint Orange!
Here I am going to explain how I paint my orange/brown used on my Aleph miniatures from Corvus Belli’s Infinity range.
What you will need are:
-Awesome Miniature (Yes, it has to be awesome!)
-Paints (in this case: German Grey [Vallejo Model Color], Gorthor Brown [Games Workshop], Orange Brown [Vallejo Model Color] and Scrofulous Brown [Vallejo Game Color]
1) Base Coat
Apply the base coat to the areas of the model you wish to paint with Gorthor Brown. Do not fret on being messy (at least as long as this is one of the first colors you are applying…).
2) First Shade
Start painting the darkest regions on your brown parts of the model. I try to focus on lower parts or sections where light is minimal or near non existent. It is not an exact science (doesn’t mean it cannot be), but it gets the job done…
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Here’s a GREAT painting guide that you could easily translate to any model! Check it out!
Here’s a guide as to how I panted up my Rebs Force.
The first thing to say is there were a few basic colours that stayed the same throughout the force; the armour, blacks, reds, metals and leather. So here’s a rundown of how those colours were achieved:
Armour: The armour was painted in the same fashion as my Deadzone terrain. Take a look HERE to see how that was acheived.
Blacks: Basecoat with Abaddon Black
Highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise focussing on the top edge of the folds and raised areas
Highlight of Codex Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise
Fine Highlight of Fortress Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise
Was of Nuln oil mixed with a bit of Lahmian Medium
Reds: Over the Khorne Red base:
Layer of Mephiston Red leaving the recesses the original colour
Highlight of Evil Sun Scarlet
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More basing tutorials!
Here’s how I did the Reaper Hydra with a marsh base!
1. Clean mould lines, boil, dry fit while cooling to reduce gaps.
2. Prime black
3. Paint the scales on his back VGC Jade Green, highlight with mix of Jade Green and RMS Linen White.
4. Wash back scales with Army Painter Blue Tone ink. In this picture the left has not been washed yet.
5. Paint the rest of the hydra VGC Falcon Turquoise.
6. Wash with GW Nightshade.
7. Next it was time for the faces – which there are a ton of!
8. Build the bases.
9. Paint the bases when they are dry.
10. Add stumps to bases.
11. Finish the faces and assemble the Hydras!
12. Paint stumps.
13. Add grass.
14. Add water effects mixed with Flames of War Camo Dark Green paint, also mix in GF9 Marsh blend flock to “gunk” it…
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Great stuff here!
In this miniature hobby-world, there are three kinds of people:
1. People who want to paint, and even enjoy it, but don’t have the entire skill set to achieve their preconcieved goal.
2. People who love to paint, and will do anything to get their hands on a hairs-glued-to-a-wooden-stick that is dipped in emulsified pigment.
3. People who hate painting and won’t do it ever.
Sorry, I can’t help those of you who fall into #3. But, for those of you who are #1 and #2 people, I’ve located a series of YouTube videos that may inspire, inform, and interest you to pursue the wonderful world of technicolorizing and modeling your pewter/plastic miniatures.
How to Paint Miniatures: Complete Painting Tutorials link
The Basics: Painting Segmented Tutorials link
Airbrush Basics: Tutorials & Techniques link
Bases & Terrain: Designs & Ideas link
Cast Fantasy Miniatures Using Rubber Molds link
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I’m always on the lookout for new painting techniques and today’s tutorial comes courtesy of Hand Cannon Online.
Check out their tutorial on painting models strictly using washes. I’ve used a variation of this technique with my Tohaa and it’s paying dividends. I was able to knock out 7 models with minimum time spent at the painting desk (as the drying time allows you to do other stuff and come back later easily) thus enabling me to keep my motivation up. Plus dem results!
I can see this technique REALLY cutting down on your amount of unpainted models (which let’s be real, it a problem for us WM/H players) and quickly.