I always found deserts to be fascinating habitats. A cursory look will leave you with the impression that it is hell on earth: sandstorms, unbearable heat during the day and freezing at nighttime. Yet, the desert is not only home to thousands of plant and animal species, it also has a simple beauty to it, […]
I thought I’d show you the stages method that I’m using to paint my Blood Bowl team.
I was asked a week or two ago about preventing paint chipping and figured it might be worth a quick note here, in case others out there are having issues. The two points below should help greatly r…
Source: Tip: Preventing Paint Chipping
Here’s a neat idea! Never thought of making a dice tray before, but they definitely come in handy!
You want a nice looking but cheap dice tray fitting your army or board game? Here you are:
What you need:
- a picture frame with a 2cm border (about 1 inch), size 19cm x 23,5 cm or smaller [5 Euro)
- a custom printed mousepad, you get it in nearly every printshop [9 Euro]
- wood glue or super glue
- a knife
- a ruler
- black primer
Remove the stand on the backside of the frame.
Remove the glas on the inside
I primed the mdf on both sides black.
And finally cut the Mousepad to a fitting size and glue it into the inside of the frame 🙂
In addition to Malifaux and Infinity, Frostgrave is another game that’s caught our attention! Here’s a great warband and terrain!
If you follow me on Facebook you’ve likely seen my real-time progress shots on Frostgrave, Osprey’s new Warband Adventure game, which I’ll be running an open Campaign for at the CoOp. I’m super-excited to get to play and I should have the bulk of the neccessary scenery for it done this weekend.
Here’s some progress shots of my Sigilist warband for those that haven’t seen them. They’re a mix of Reaper, Otherword and the new North Star Frostgrave Soldier plastic box!
I’ve also been hard at work on terrain from a variety of sources. It will all be played on a Frontline Gaming Alpine FAT Mat.
Lots more to come!
Fantastic tutorial here on how to paint Marble! Great idea for bases!
I had a request to show how I did the marble on Alexis Polux’s shield, so I threw together a quick little tutorial. Hope you like!
The next step was to airbrush Tamiya Flat White over the shield. This is done holding the airbrush from about a 45 degree angle above the shield, angling the spray downwards. This should keep the chaos black in the recesses to maintain the shadows
Next, lines were painted across the shield using Nuln Oil. More thinned down Flat White was then airbrushed gently across the shield, dulling down the lines. As before, the airbrush was held at an angle to the shield to maintain the darker colors in the recesses.
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A great tutorial on how to paint Orange!
Here I am going to explain how I paint my orange/brown used on my Aleph miniatures from Corvus Belli’s Infinity range.
What you will need are:
-Awesome Miniature (Yes, it has to be awesome!)
-Paints (in this case: German Grey [Vallejo Model Color], Gorthor Brown [Games Workshop], Orange Brown [Vallejo Model Color] and Scrofulous Brown [Vallejo Game Color]
1) Base Coat
Apply the base coat to the areas of the model you wish to paint with Gorthor Brown. Do not fret on being messy (at least as long as this is one of the first colors you are applying…).
2) First Shade
Start painting the darkest regions on your brown parts of the model. I try to focus on lower parts or sections where light is minimal or near non existent. It is not an exact science (doesn’t mean it cannot be), but it gets the job done…
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I’ve been using a wet palette for a few years and I recommend them to anyone looking to get great results on their miniatures! Thin paints are key!
When I started taking miniature painting seriously, I asked the good painters I saw what their number one recommendation is for someone to improve their painting. Invariably they said, “Thin your paints!” This is because not only does this make the paints go on smoother than if you used them straight from the pot, it reduces the appearance of brush strokes, and most importantly it takes advantage of the translucent quality of the acrylic paints we use as miniature painters; briefly what this means is that if you properly thin your paint the layer beneath your top layer will show through some where the top layer is thinner, giving you a smother blending of layers.
The addition of that simple technique to my painting arsenal stepped up my painting game immensely, but the one issue I ran into with working with thinned paints is that, like all paints, they gradually…
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Great tutorial for rusted metal bases!
Metal is hard to maintain. It get’s gritty, looses it’s luster, accumulates rust and eventually falls apart but that’s why we love it. It grows character with age. In this post I’ll cover my technique for painting my favorite of all metals, the rusted kind. Come sit, and paint with me.
Firstly, I designed these 55mm bases for use on some of my Infinity models. By using sheets of platicard, corrugated cardboard, aluminum wire, and even a BIC pen, I was able to create an industrial look. I highly recommend trying this project out to any hobbyist. Just go nuts and have fun.
Once the bases were built I spray painted them using Army Painter’s Platemail Metal. It’s not the best surface to paint on being that it’s so glossy, so I also sprayed a coat of clear matte varnish over it.
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Rhyas’ (and Saeryn’s) character warbeast is looking O.M.G.Amazing!
My Rhyas can’t wait to get her homeboy! I’m also super excited if you couldn’t tell. I went nuts when they announced that her character warbeast was going to be a Nephilim, as my Soldier is not only the first legion model I ever painted, but still one of my favorites. The fact that it does so much work in my Rearguard army makes it even better!